With Paraíba tourmaline emerging as the next It gem in the luxury jewellery world, sustainable miner Cuprian & Co. is all set to make its mark through a design collaboration this week in New York.
A collective of 18 designers — Alice Ciccolini, Daniela Villegas, Dorian Webb, Dyne, Harlin Jones, Harwell Godfrey, HOWL, Jade Ruzzo, Loren Nicole, Lorraine West, Lucy Leenet, Mason and Books, Retrouvai, Shola Branson, Stephen Webster, Vanessa Fernández and Zahn-Z — have joined the mine’s initiative by unleashing their creativity to celebrate the unique characteristics of the green gem and spread awareness about the stone.
Greenwich St. Jewelers, helmed by Christina and Jennifer Gandia, is the retailer partner for the launch. The jewellery starts at a retail price of $5,000 and goes up to $100,000.
All 44 pieces in this collection will include a certificate from the American Gemological Laboratories (AGL). “It seems only natural that as awareness of this gem variety grows, that the colours which are appreciated will also expand. Therefore, it comes as no surprise that this is extending into the green range of colours. Green is the hue which has been shown to be the softest on the eyes and broadest in the visible spectrum. The green range and nuances of colour offered by the Paraiba-type tourmalines of Mozambique fits beautifully into this aesthetic. It is a pleasure and an honour for AGL to support and be closely involved in growing the awareness and appreciation of this outstanding gem material,” says Chris Smith, president of AGL.
According to Steven Hennigan, the mine’s Director of Business Development, the gemstone was first discovered in Brazil in 1989 and later in Mozambique. Paraíba sports a rich colour spectrum. The mine-to-market operation produces copper-bearing Rubellite and Paraíba tourmaline. Gabriella Harvey’s experience working in designer collaborations proved key to curating the roster of talents. “Cuprian & Co. started noticing a rise in demand for the green Paraíba about a year ago, and in early 2024 we concepted the program to create awareness of the gemstone.”
Designers were asked to stay true to their brand DNA and to either design from their signature-core collection or create something totally new, but in keeping with their brand aesthetic, Gabriella elaborates on the design brief. Wanting to showcase the full colour palette “knowing that with 18 designers, we would get a beautiful collection representative of the green Paraíba,” the mine’s team sorted more than 200 cut and polished gems.
“Gabriella invited me to be part of the project. She’s been really supportive since I met her and extremely generous with her time and knowledge, so it was a pleasure to be part of what she’s putting together,” says British Nigerian designer Shola Branson. His cartouche-shaped pendant is made in 18-karat Single Mine Origin gold and accented with Botswanamark diamonds. “The central Paraíba cabochon sits in a ring of white diamonds (of mixed sizes), which are set into a blackened gold recess. The outer ring of the pendant is in my signature brushed gold texture. The scale of the piece feels very robust and bold,” adds Shola.
Steven Hennigan is excited about some of the gems that have landed in the jewels. Lucy Leenet chose a rare, 10.69-carat faceted pear-shape Paraíba tourmaline, while Tini Courtney of HOWL selected a deep spearmint and shamrock colour palette that contrasted perfectly with the 22-karat yellow gold setting, he remarks. “By choosing gemstones with the vivid Paraíba glow, designers Daniela Villegas and Loren Nicole created pieces so striking they effortlessly draw attention, even from across the room,” says Steven.
Emerging talent Hiba Husayani sought to stay true to her brand ZAHN-Z’s signature designs and veered towards three different colours of the gem. “For the two 0.61-carat cushions, despite their smaller size, the intense Wintergreen colour truly stands out. One cushion was set in the signature petite Zaha, while the other was incorporated into a double Zaha pendant alongside an oval Kelly colour Paraíba, beautifully contrasting the rich tones of Kelly and Wintergreen,” she adds. “The unique offerings and vibrant colours of these stones truly captivated me. Additionally, Cuprian & Co.’s commitment to sustainability and their profound respect for the environment resonate deeply with ZAHN-Z’s values. This alignment makes our partnership even more meaningful,” says Hiba.
For Rachel Quinn, working with Paraíba tourmalines from Cuprian & Co was a way to showcase their specular gemstones. “These stones not only uplift the communities where they are sourced but also elevate the pieces that I created with them,” says the designer, who paired them with coloured stones that complemented the rich hue of the Paraíba. Her 18-karat gold offerings include the cord necklace, Exclamation Point ring and Cube pendant necklace.
Meanwhile, Lauren Harwell of Harwell Godfrey wanted to do something that lived up to these beautiful stones. “I decided to use them in a Queen Bee with a companion necklace. The regal quality of this bee, the first one I’ve ever made with a crown, felt like the right way to highlight these special stones,” she adds.
Paraíbas, Tini shares, are her favourite stones in the game. “It is my engagement ring stone and something I cherish deeply, and I am constantly inspired by its dynamic nature. The colour is ever-changing depending on its surrounding temperatures and water exposure,” says the founder of fine jewellery brand HOWL (Handle Only With Love). “I was extremely excited when I was approached about this collaboration considering my fascination with Paraíbas, so there was no hesitation nor lack of inspiration for me to create from a place of pure creativity.” Tini has designed a trio of rings in 18-karat yellow gold for the collaboration.
Jade Ruzzo has always been attracted to Paraíba stones. The glowing colour of the stone fits so well into her brand palette and looks gorgeous against 18-karat yellow gold. Jade’s designs include a choker, pendant necklace, and ring, while Sarah Ysabel Narici of Dyne has designed a ring called Cuprite in 18-karat white gold and an inlay of blue chalcedony and blue sapphires.
Paraiba Tourmalines are for those who know, observes Kirsty Stone. “I was delighted to have the opportunity to create a few one-of-a-kind pieces featuring Cuprian & Co. stones. The glow of a Paraiba is so distinct, and Cuprian & Co had the perfect offering for us to work with,” explains the founder and designer of popular jewellery brand Retrouvaí.
Elsewhere, the captivating green Paraíba tourmaline drew in Jamie Books with its extraordinary neon glow and rarity. “For me, green has a timeless elegance — a colour that feels both neutral and vintage, yet vibrant and alive. The way this stunning stone embodies my favourite shade, radiating an energy that is both refreshing and unique, makes it a true treasure. It’s not just a gem; it’s a celebration of nature’s artistry, and the rarity of Paraíba tourmaline elevates it to something truly special.” The founder of Mason & Books has made two rings, a pair of drops and a pendant for the collaboration that feature diamond accents and an inlay of mother-of-pearl, pink opal and turquoise.
Lorraine West has dreamed up two rings in 18-karat yellow gold set with Paraíba. “It makes them not only beautiful but also meaningful, especially when sourced responsibly. Collaborating with a company that values sustainability and ethics creates a positive impact in the industry,” she adds.
The colour of Cuprian & Co. tourmalines is what makes them so alluring, remarks Dorian Webb, who envisioned her pieces in platinum. “It was important for me to match the purity of the metal used to the unmistakable, transcendent quality of the Paraíba themselves.”
By Smitha Sadanandan for Solitaire International
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